T
Portuguese exhibitors arrived at Première Vision Paris with moderate expectations, but the start of the fair has exceeded the anticipated scenario. Still, this edition is smaller, with fewer visitors and a predominantly European audience. Right at the entrance, the area dedicated to deadstocks draws attention and overshadows the original developments presented by the companies—a contrast with the edition’s central theme, focused on technology and innovation. Added to this context is increasingly fierce Asian competition, felt throughout the venue.
At Magma Têxtil, the first day was considered “surprisingly positive, with good footfall” at the stand, both from brands already familiar with the company and from new clients. “The scheduled meetings took place,” highlighted Joana Guimarães, confident that the activity will continue.
The presence of several samples in the Trend Forum has served as a draw, including: a crepe knit blended with organic cotton and seacell; a 100% lyocell knit with “exceptional” touch and drape; a chenille yarn with the loop as the front of the knit; a plush inspired by bombazine in navy; a wide rib with a warm feel and GOTS verification; and a herringbone terry with linen.
LEMAR reported a first day with a regular flow of clients, although without the maximum attendance expected given the size of the fair. The company received mostly French clients and some international visitors, but in total held fewer meetings than in the previous edition.
Still, LEMAR’s participation in the PV forums, with four highlighted samples, has sparked visitor curiosity and brought many to the stand. Among these offerings are novelties that Flávio Dias had already highlighted at The London Textile Fair, such as article 167/15, a heavy twill made with recycled polyester and organic cotton, and CHRYSANTHEMUM, developed with SEAQUAL and T400 ECOMADE yarns.
Vilartex also reports a very positive start. For Manuel Ribeiro, “yesterday went very well, it was the best of recent years,” and the expectation is that Wednesday will maintain the pace, despite transport difficulties.
The company brought “a bit of everything” to the fair, from trends such as fur and merino to basics, with different structures and weights. Vilartex has nine products selected for the forum and benefited from a strategic location “on the main passage between hall 5 and hall 6,” which resulted in a stand that was always full.
“Fewer people are seen in the aisles and more inside the stands. More Spaniards and Americans are noticeable, who visit us here because the collection is larger than, for example, the one we present in New York,” they explained. Despite the optimism, they warned that the most difficult day may be tomorrow due to a planned strike.
TMG Textiles is participating in this edition with the goal of asserting a strong position. “Expectations were not high, but we committed ourselves and were pleasantly surprised. Yesterday was very positive, with visits from both our existing clients and new ones. This morning has reflected exactly the same,” summarizes Pedro Silva. Noting that PV was shortened by one day, he explains that clients anticipated visits and emphasizes that 90% of visitors at the stand were European.
With several samples on display in the Trend and Innovation forums, TMG Textiles focuses mainly on recycled and noble materials—such as bamboo lyocell—and on core articles with functionalities, such as water repellency. “The goal is to bring the technical aspect into fashion, and this has impacted forum views. We continue our journey with noble materials, so that this increasingly becomes the point of recognition for us,” states the R&D Manager.
The company also used the fair to share its first sustainability report, a document that “took a lot of work” to prepare, but which clearly communicates TMG’s best practices and strategy in this area.
“The market is very attentive to sustainability and traceability, especially the French market, which cares about origins, and it can find all this information transformed into an official report, with coherent information.” The document has been well received and has generated healthy discussions around sustainability and Portugal’s role in this field.
Matias & Araújo experiences this edition as smaller and with fewer contacts. Carla Silva, commercial manager, noted that the first day was “pleasant,” but mainly marked by visits from already known clients, mostly from Italy, France, Germany, England, and Belgium.
The presented collection focuses on the mid-to-high market and emphasizes noble raw materials such as wool, cashmere, and silk. “We have all types of knits and jacquards, jersey is also one of our specialties, in addition to terry fabrics,” she emphasized.
At Penteadora, the start “surprisingly met expectations.” Despite the fair taking place at a late stage, clients arrived seeking specific products and mid-season updates. “Collections are almost finalized, but we were able to meet requests and even analyze some mid-season proposals,” the company reports, highlighting two major new ranges—heritage coats and Saxony suits—in pure wool.
Penteadora has five fabrics selected for the Citywear Forum, allowing modern and sophisticated looks that enhance wool properties. “We have an optimistic expectation for the season,” they conclude.
Soeiro takes a more moderate view, admitting it received fewer visitors than in the last edition. For the company, the reduced attendance is explained by the coincidence with the Texworld fair, costs, and the organization itself.
“Première Vision has a platform for scheduling meetings, but some clients did not attend. We had many small brands, startups,” the company summarizes, also calling for greater proximity between Portuguese exhibitors in future editions as a way to strengthen the visibility of made in Portugal.