What makes a fashion product sustainable?
TI07 - January 20

Miguel Pedrosa Rodrigues

ATP Vice-president
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ustainability is a topic that, while not particularly new, is evident in the most transversal and pressing manner. Everywhere, and in all occasions, the concept has taken centre stage. For some, the issue gravitates around the use of our planet’s resources to satisfy today’s immediate needs, without compromising future generations. An environmental responsibility of sorts, which spawned circular economy. In other words, the products and services that we use shall, at the end of their useful life, return to their place in Nature, or be disposed with the least environmental impact.

For others, the idea is that the influence a product has over the societies that make it is relevant to its appreciation. The human being that produced it is placed at the heart of the sustainability equation, and this same human will undertake the several activities that promote a positive impact on the environment. In this line of thought, the consumer appreciates the product also according to the social responsibility associated with its production (take the examples of Everlane or Patagonia, which place social responsibility at the centre of its identity).

For brands, social responsibility is a risky subject. In the eternal search for the lowest prices, brands gamble more than they think in a sort of Russian roulette of social responsibility (not in Portugal, but surely in other not-so-distant geographies).

At last, there’s the speech directed towards the absence of energetic sustainability, which jeopardizes any type of sustainability of our current way of life, in all its aspects. Looking at these three perspectives, I’m inclined to believe that sustainability is a combination of the three: environmental, social and energetic, for the simple reason that they complement each other.

May the reader note, however, that for the average consumer this topic is essentially a long, technical, and very boring conversation that, if taken rigorously, will have no listeners.

On the side, opting-out of this conversation is too much of a risk for brands and supply chains. Something must be said, even if the statement is dubious, lacking rigour or even without any link with reality. This is how we got to today, where sustainability is essentially spoken about like a game of mirrors. Worst of all, the field is already crowded with players that leave much to desire regarding this aspect. And the consumer, naturally, becomes confused.

A study, presented at Première Vision by the Institute Français de la Mode, inquired consumers in France, Italy, Germany and the U.S.: “What, in your opinion, makes a fashion product sustainable?”. Amongst several factors and variables, one answer stood out: approximately 80% of consumers confessed not being sufficiently informed about sustainable fashion. Mainly because that information doesn’t really exist.

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